Varanasi Unseen: Exploring the Hidden Sides of India’s Spiritual Heart

Varanasi, also known as Kashi or Benaras, is revered for its ghats, ancient temples, and mystical ambiance. However, beyond the famed Ganga Aarti, sacred ghats, and bustling streets, lies an unseen side of Varanasi, brimming with hidden stories, secluded spots, and unique experiences. This guide will take you through the lesser-known aspects of Varanasi’s soul, highlighting its historical mysteries, local legends, and uncharted locations that reveal a different side of this ancient city.

Untold Stories and Mysteries of Varanasi

1. The Underground Vishnu Temple at Rajghat

   • Legend: Buried beneath Rajghat lies a little-known ancient temple devoted to Lord Vishnu. Discovered during an excavation in the 1960s, this temple dates back to the Gupta period (around 5th century AD). The temple’s remains include intricate carvings and sculptures of Vishnu and other deities, offering a rare glimpse into early temple architecture.
   • Why Visit: Few know of this site, which provides insight into the religious history of Varanasi before it became primarily associated with Shiva.

2. Manikarnika Kund and the Legend of Immortality

   • Legend: Said to have been created by Lord Vishnu’s chakra, Manikarnika Kund is a mysterious well located near Manikarnika Ghat. It is believed that those who bathe in its waters attain liberation. According to local lore, this kund holds the story of Devi Sati’s sacrifice and Lord Shiva’s dance of grief, which sanctified Varanasi.
   • Why Visit: This lesser-known kund allows for a quieter, more intimate experience compared to the bustling ghat nearby.

3. The Tale of Ratneshwar Mahadev – The Leaning Temple of Varanasi

   • Legend: Locally known as the “Kashi Ka Pisa” (Varanasi’s Pisa), the Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple leans at an angle reminiscent of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Legends say it was cursed to sink by a mother who felt betrayed by her son after constructing it in her name.
   • Why Visit: Hidden among the bustling ghats, this architectural anomaly and its associated folklore make for a fascinating discovery.

4. The Hidden Yoginis of Varanasi

   • Legend: Scattered in secluded locations across Varanasi are ancient shrines dedicated to the 64 Yoginis, mystical female deities often worshiped in tantric traditions. Locals believe these shrines possess supernatural powers and offer protection against evil forces.
   • Why Visit: These secluded shrines add a mystic layer to Varanasi’s religious landscape and reflect its association with esoteric and tantric practices.

5. Rehwa – The City’s Silk Weaving Tradition

   • History: Beyond the ghats and temples, the weaver neighborhoods in Varanasi, such as Madanpura, reveal an important heritage: Banarasi silk weaving. This ancient craft has been passed down through generations, with each piece carrying cultural and spiritual significance.
   • Why Visit: Exploring these neighborhoods offers a window into the artisans’ lives and a chance to witness the making of exquisite Banarasi saris.

3-Day Itinerary to Discover Varanasi’s Hidden Sides

Day 1: The Ancient Mysteries of Varanasi

• Morning: Start at Rajghat and explore the excavated ruins of the underground Vishnu temple. Enjoy the serenity and ponder the hidden layers of Varanasi’s religious history.
• Afternoon: Visit Ratneshwar Mahadev Temple to marvel at its architectural oddity. Learn about the legend behind its unusual tilt and take in the surrounding ghats.
• Evening: Head to Manikarnika Kund. As dusk falls, witness the Ganga Aarti at a quieter ghat, like Assi Ghat, for a less-crowded experience.

Day 2: The Spiritual Path Less Traveled

• Morning: Begin your day with a walk through Chausath Yogini Temple in the old city to discover shrines dedicated to the Yoginis. Observe the intricate carvings and the aura of mysticism in these hidden corners.
• Afternoon: Wander through the winding alleys of Madanpura and other weaver districts to see artisans at work. Learn about the weaving process, and, if possible, purchase a Banarasi sari directly from the craftsmen.
• Evening: Visit Sankat Mochan Temple at dusk, where you can listen to soulful Hanuman bhajans (devotional songs) in a tranquil setting, away from the main tourist areas.

Day 3: A Walk Through Time – Varanasi’s Forgotten Monuments and Legends

• Morning: Start with a guided heritage walk in Bhelupur and Lahurabir to explore lesser-known historical monuments, havelis, and Sufi shrines that showcase Varanasi’s multi-religious past.
• Afternoon: Visit Kabir Math to learn about the spiritual legacy of Kabir, the 15th-century poet-saint who preached unity and tolerance. Engage with the monks who preserve his teachings.
• Evening: Conclude your day with a boat ride along the Ganges, passing by lesser-known ghats, where you can observe the city from a new perspective and reflect on the untold stories you’ve encountered.

Experiences Off the Beaten Path

1. Explore the Hidden Markets of Thateri Bazaar

   • Known for brassware and locally crafted items, Thateri Bazaar is an artisan haven. You’ll find metalworkers crafting stunning items by hand and can purchase unique souvenirs.

2. Discover the Sufi Shrines and Dargahs

   • While predominantly a Hindu city, Varanasi is also home to several Sufi shrines, such as Dargah-e-Yusuf in Kashipura. These shrines offer a glimpse into the city’s diverse spiritual tapestry.

3. Meet the Traditional Puppeteers of Ramnagar

   • Across the river in Ramnagar, you’ll find traditional puppeteers and storytellers who keep ancient folk traditions alive. Engaging with these artists offers a unique connection to the city’s storytelling heritage.

Travel Tips for Exploring Varanasi’s Hidden Side

• Best Time to Visit: October to March is ideal, as the weather is pleasant and suitable for exploring.
• Guided Tours: Many hidden spots and local legends can be best appreciated with the help of a knowledgeable guide, so consider a heritage or spiritual tour led by locals.
• Cultural Sensitivity: Some of these places hold deep spiritual significance, so it’s essential to dress modestly and respect local customs and traditions.

Why Seek the Unseen Varanasi?

The unseen Varanasi is not only about monuments and legends but also about experiencing a city that has been a crucible of ideas, arts, and spirituality for millennia. By stepping off the beaten path, you’ll uncover a deeper, more intimate connection with Varanasi, discovering stories that will stay with you long after you leave. Whether you’re a history buff, a seeker, or simply curious, the hidden side of Varanasi will captivate and inspire you.